Welcome Guest! To enable all features please login.

Notification

Icon
Error

4 Pages«<234
RoryK
#61 Posted : 06 December 2018 15:13:44(UTC)
RoryK

Rank: Regular poster

Groups: Registered
Joined: 11/12/2014(UTC)
Posts: 64

Thanks: 2 times
Was thanked: 5 time(s) in 5 post(s)

After a good nights rest and half a day of my regular job I was back in the shed to carry on with the rear drive shaft issue, I had already accepted the shaft and hub were scrap so I proceeded to carry on hacking away and making my mess even messier with the goal in mind to at least preserve the upright.. any more experienced people reading please forgive me and I do apologise as the next bits aren't pretty, but I am not one to be beaten so I started by removing the wheel studs and the brake disc cover to give me more working angles:

Now I had better access I started drilling, heating and cutting between the bolt and spline which as mentioned earlier in the thread I had hit so hard trying to remove it, the bolt essentially stripped the threads on the spline and the hammering squashed the spline over the top of the bolt  , an hour later 3 sacrificed metal drill bits and rationing my remaining cutting disc on my dremel the bolt come loose and a cup of tea was made .... (Sorry some picture might seem out of focus because dirt / grease was on the lense)

After a small break and back to working on the drive shaft removal I just couldn't get it to budge regardless of how much I heated it, or how hard I hit it with a sledge hammer, eventually conceding to defeat and seeking external help I had completely forgot that within walking distance of my house is a metal fabricators and work shop, a real gem and diamond in the rough in this modern day and it's saved my hide with other projects in the past! So being lazy and as it was raining I jumped into the daily steed and gave them a visit, I had to take a picture of the workshop just to give an idea as to how old school this place is, which had every kind of machinery you could ever need for anything metal work related!

After finding the gentleman who run the place he was able to help me out, popping the whole unit into a hydraulic press and feeling confident a 20mm thick ally tube would be enough to support the knuckle / upright whilst the press applied 40 ton to the spline to pop it out... well guess what... the ally tube bent to our amazement and the spline didn't budge... eventually resorting to a 30mm thick steal tube and not 40 ton, but 60 ton of pressure the thing popped out with an almighty crack! I am still amazed at how much it took to remove the drive shaft, but I also get relief in that it shows how seized it was meaning the work I did above could be forgiven slightly... I hope some would take pitty anyway 

Now back home and feeling happy that I could finally move on I popped the up right in the vice and knocked the hub out with the socket and hammer method as previously used, with that out I had some issues with the c-clip, but after some more heating up and some light taps with a hammer and pick it come loose, allowing me to remove the remaining bearing and the rear seal  I have another hub / knuckle setup on its was so will need to repeat this again on one more unit but don't worry I won't post about that... I'm sure anyone reading this is getting just as bored of looking at rusty sub frame arms as I am...




With that done and finally behind me I stripped out all the old bushings from the control arms and drop links, some took some heat to soften them up, but once I got the right size cups / sockets they come out with little issue.

My zinc plating kit also turned up which is handy as I am nearly ready to start using it, and with the rear sub frame breakdown 95% complete I finished building my secondary bench in my workshop for the sand blasting and plating to take place, adding a couple of my previous projects on the wall as inspiration to 

keep going 

Next up the rear subs and arms are being dropped off to the local powder coating company, Hubs still need a little work and then blasting and plating begins which I am excited about, finally ending with both front and rear sub frames being fully rebuilt and ready to go back on the car ending this 'stage' of the restoration / rebuild... whatever you want to call it.

Also now over 10k views which I am so surprised by! even if it is a glancing reader it still gives me motivation to keep going so thanks to all who have viewed, and all those that do follow and comment it is really appreciated and it goes a long way!

 

 

 

Edited by user 06 December 2018 15:15:55(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified

 1 user thanked RoryK for this useful post.
Chillax on 27/12/2018(UTC)
goatboy
#62 Posted : 09 December 2018 19:42:50(UTC)
goatboy

Rank: Advanced poster

Groups: Registered
Joined: 09/01/2015(UTC)
Posts: 144

Thanks: 19 times
Was thanked: 13 time(s) in 13 post(s)

Great read. You are really going all out!

I am in hemel too so if you see a lowered dark red mk3 about give me a wave!

where is the metal fabricators? Looks like a handy sort of place...

RoryK
#63 Posted : 09 December 2018 22:27:57(UTC)
RoryK

Rank: Regular poster

Groups: Registered
Joined: 11/12/2014(UTC)
Posts: 64

Thanks: 2 times
Was thanked: 5 time(s) in 5 post(s)

Originally Posted by: goatboy Go to Quoted Post

Great read. You are really going all out!

I am in hemel too so if you see a lowered dark red mk3 about give me a wave!

where is the metal fabricators? Looks like a handy sort of place...

Thanks  I'll be sure to keep my eye out! At the moment I just use the family car which is a black BMW X5 with a private plate, I figured you should know this just incase you thought I was waving you down to try and sell drugs haha.

The metal Fabricators is in Nash Mills / Apsley, its on the estate where the new development is opposite Toms lane, its called Milbor Engineering but sadly I think he is selling up for early retirement  I think there is a similar place in King Langley though so I will certainly keep my eyes peeled

 

RoryK
#64 Posted : 29 December 2018 22:45:21(UTC)
RoryK

Rank: Regular poster

Groups: Registered
Joined: 11/12/2014(UTC)
Posts: 64

Thanks: 2 times
Was thanked: 5 time(s) in 5 post(s)

Update time.. had a call from the local powder coating company who had finished my rear sub frame and arms which I am happy with 

Also had a delivery earlier on in the month as mentioned before for new upper and lower ball joints so with this in mind I decided to build the front sub frame first starting with the lower ball joints, for anyone thinking of replacing their ball joints my advice is to always remove the dust cover first as many complain about rips or tearing but this is usually caused by not removing the boot before pressing them into the arm, I proceeded to do the same removing the filling nipple from the back, dust boot, retaining wire, C Clip, Castle nut and split pin.

With the above removed I was able to safely press the ball joints into the upper arms

Once pressed in both ball joints were built up in the same order but to note it's much easier to fit the C-Clip with the rubber dust cover off

Next up was fitting my new Super Pro poly bush kit which was fun and just required plenty of grease of both literal and elbow variety 

And finally finishing off all other arms 

 With the poly bushes arms all built I proceeded to press the new front wheels hubs and bearings onto the uprights... or knuckles... whatever you want to call them... this didn't go so smoothly as my manual press kit wasn't wide enough so I had to do it in 3 phases.

  1. start the install with soft taps using rubber mallet and plenty of grease on the spindle
  2. Carefully use a bench vice, with a micro fibre over the vices teeth to avoid scratching to squeeze the hub on 5-10mm more
  3. Finish off with the manual press kit
  4. Inspect the bearing - tap the inner bracing back in place if needed as sometimes it will be stuck and not move down with the rest of the hub / bearing assembly <- this can be done with socket to size and some soft taps with a rubber mallet.

With the arms all built and ready to go I turned my attention once more to the bolts originally removed which had already been soaked overnight in some Deox-C.

The outcome of initial inspection was good, all seemed to be good enough to use again so into the blaster they went for some glass bead treatment, below is a before and after of the alignment bolts:

Feeling confident I could save them I popped them into a hot solution of de-grease followed by an acid bath to etch before applying a new zinc coat with gold passivate finish

 

Annnnndddd this is where the OCD comes out in me The acid dip sadly revealed the pitting damage caused by the rust, the plating process was a success but the overall finish I am not happy with due to the pitting.

I could chuck these bolts back in the blaster and use a heavier media to try and rid of the pitting damage, but I am conscious of the time it will take mixed with the cold weather and the issues I am having with the various chemicals in the zinc plating process to react correctly (My shed looks like a meth lab at the moment..), but as I have set myself a goal to have the shell in a rolling state by the end of 2019 I decided I do not have the time so will be ordering a new full set of bolts.

Also I am fully aware the bolts really aren't that bad and in any other circumstance I would gladly use them.

Next up is to rebuild the rear hubs with new bearings, and painting the old hubs before finally bolting this lot together and moving on to the next part of the project... steering rack! Should I power it down? or keep power steering? let me know your thoughts 

 

 

 

Edited by user 29 December 2018 22:57:01(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified

saz9961
#65 Posted : 29 December 2018 23:11:44(UTC)
saz9961

Rank: Advanced poster

Groups: ForumModerator, OCMember, Registered
Joined: 24/07/2008(UTC)
Posts: 9,949

Thanks: 15 times
Was thanked: 654 time(s) in 579 post(s)
The alignment bolts stretch over time, and won't hold alignment. Probably better to replace. Mazda redesigned these for better longevity.
Users browsing this topic
Guest
4 Pages«<234
Forum Jump  
You cannot post new topics in this forum.
You cannot reply to topics in this forum.
You cannot delete your posts in this forum.
You cannot edit your posts in this forum.
You cannot create polls in this forum.
You cannot vote in polls in this forum.

Powered by YAF 1.9.6.1 | YAF © 2003-2019, Yet Another Forum.NET
This page was generated in 0.788 seconds.